A Mumbai Restaurant Celebrating the Flavors of Goa

A selection of dishes at O Pedro in Mumbai.

Despite the nostalgia for Goa, the petite state on India’s western coast, held by Mumbai residents, restaurants featuring its cuisine — seafood-forward, infused with vinegar and heat, the legacy of four centuries of Portuguese rule colliding deliciously with Indian flavors and ingredients — are scarce in the city. So when rumors began circulating that the all-star team behind Mumbai’s cult favorite Bombay Canteen — including the celebrated New York City-based chef Floyd Cardoz — were planning an ode to Goa, city diners immediately began clearing their calendars.

While the group has strong ties to the state — Mumbai-born-and-bred Mr. Cardoz is Goan; Yash Bhanage, the chief operating officer, studied there; all of them visit frequently — it wasn’t what they initially had in mind. When they first came upon the space that would, last October, be unveiled as O Pedro, it was actually Mexican cuisine they first intended to spotlight.

The pivot makes some sense: just as Mexico is a common American destination for spring breaks and honeymoons, Mr. Bhanage said, “for a lot of us in India, it’s Goa.”

In the end, the group went with a fusion approach, incorporating Portuguese fare as well. “It does feel like Goa, but not really,” Mr. Cardoz said. “And that was a goal that we had. We want the food to be authentic and also be playful.”

I was primed for my meal at O Pedro, which came just a few weeks after my first-ever visit to Goa, spent dabbling in vindaloos, cafreals and xacutis. Its location, in the Bandra-Kurla Complex, a business district studded with glossy office towers, is bland, but first impressions dissipated once I stepped into what might have been the shabby-chic lair of an eccentric Portuguese-Goan grandmother: cane chairs, tiled walls, dishes as décor, blue-painted pillars, lace curtains. But instead of grandmothers, the lively room is packed with Mumbai movers and shakers — entertainment industry execs, media moguls and models among them.

There were some ambrosial highs: the sweet potato peri-peri with Goan cheese fondue seemed swathed in a tangy smoke; the stir-fried lotus root was heady with ginger and chile and channeled a pleasant tartness from a touch of kokum fruit. But there were also unexpected lows, like a forgettable lamb chop that lacked heat. And some attempts at fusion simply confused us: The smoked pork ribs vindaloo, while flavorful, wasn’t packed with the vinegar-and-fire punch you’d expect from a vindaloo.

“This is my mother’s recipe that I’ve adapted,” Mr. Cardoz told me later. “Every vindaloo is different. When you’re eating a vindaloo at home, you will serve it in a certain way. For a restaurant, you sometimes have to change it up a little bit.”

The Margao choriz and bacon pulao topped with fried egg — which garnered mixed reactions from my friends — also has a poignant origin story: “It’s the last meal that my grandmother made me that I remember,” Mr. Cardoz said.

The meal didn’t catapult me quite to Bombay Canteen-level highs, but O Pedro is a place I’ll still return to to revisit some favorites, to explore new corners of the expansive menu, and to soak in that festive Goan feeling.

O Pedro, Unit No. 2, Plot No. C-68, Jet Airways — Godrej BKC, Bandra Kurla Complex, Bandra (E); opedromumbai.com. An average meal for two, without drinks or tip, is around 3,000 rupees, about $45.

In Other News

fake money

Keywords clouds text link http://alonhatro.com

 máy sấy   thịt bò mỹ  thành lập doanh nghiệp
Visunhomegương trang trí  nội thất  cửa kính cường lực   lắp camera Song Phát thiết kế nhà 

Our PBN System:  thiết kế nhà xưởng thiết kế nội thất thiết kế nhà tem chống giả  https://thegioiapple.net/ https://24hstore.vn/

aviatorsgame.com ban nhạcconfirmationbiased.com 
mariankihogo.com  ốp lưngGiường ngủ triệu gia  Ku bet ku casino

https://maysayhaitan.com/  https://dovevn.com/ buy fake money https://sgnexpress.vn/ máy sấy buồn sấy lạnh

mặt nạ  mặt nạ ngủ  Mặt nạ môi mặt nạ bùn mặt nạ kem mặt nạ bột mặt nạ tẩy tế bào chết  mặt nạ đất sét mặt nạ giấy mặt nạ dưỡng mặt nạ đắp mặt  mặt nạ trị mụn
mặt nạ tế bào gốc mặt nạ trị nám tem chống giả

https://galaxymedia.vn/  công ty tổ chức sự kiện tổ chức sự kiện
Ku bet ku casino
Sâm tươi hàn quốc trần thạch cao trần thạch cao đẹp

suất ăn công nghiệpcung cấp suất ăn công nghiệp


© 2020 US News. All Rights Reserved.